Since we arrived in Italy, now almost a year ago, we had heard about this mysterious "Ferragosto." People would refer to it, almost reverently, as the time of year when the city empties. All the locals go to the beach...or the lake...or the mountains. They take advantage of their 20+days of vacation (jealous?) and take a nice long break during the middle to end of August. As result, Rome becomes deserted. In half whispers, our friends told us about this time of year, when traffic became non existent, shops closed, and the Italians disappeared.
I'll be honest. I didn't quite believe them. I mean, how could a whole city stop, really?
Than August 1 rolled around. Suddenly, there were parking spaces on our street. Our commute to work, usually about 20 minutes to drive the little more than 2 miles, started taking 15 minutes, then closer to 10. There were less and less crazed Italian drivers cutting us off on the streets. More and more shops were closed with little signs posted, stating
"Closed for the holidays".
What is the holiday, exactly? Introduced by Emperor Augustus in 18 BC (yup, the Italians have been taking off like this since BEFORE CHRIST), the Feriae Augusti, or Augustus' rest, was one holiday in late summer that celebrated both the hard work that goes into agriculture and the joys of the harvest. Traditionally, after all the work of the harvest, the ancient Romans would take a long needed rest. The period was celebrated with horse races and beasts of burdens, like oxen and bulls, were decorated with flowers. The famous Palio of Siena, celebrated on August 16, is a remnant of these ancient celebrations.
Today, Ferragosto is just one day, August 15, a national holiday where even the government is closed. Depending on the day of the week this national holiday falls, many Italians (and non-Italians like us) will take a quick vacation (or longer one). The tradition of taking a holiday over the actual Ferragosto holiday dates from Fascism where the government itself promoted quick discounted 1-3 days trips. It was a wonderful opportunity for those who could not typically afford it to visit seaside or mountain resorts and thus Ferragosto became associated with trips to the beach or mountains. And it is definitely worth the trip!!
